Day 5: Montblanc to Granyena de les Barrigues (via Torrebesses), Spain, 43 miles; 140 miles total

Though we have transitioned to the interior, riding west from Montblanc through a arid region featuring olives, grapes apples, and almonds. We found a lot of large Granny Smith-looking apples that had been spilled along the roadside. Nearly all crops are sustained with drip irrigation systems. Much of the farming is automated, so many former workers’ cottages amid the fields are abandoned or converted to storage sheds.

Spain weather has been perfect, ranging from 65F at 9 am and not yet reaching 80F. Some days are overcast until mid-morning; no sign of rain during the day; only one shower in the evening while in Stiges. Mid-September and October are ideal for cycling in Spain.

The initial riding was along the N-240, an excellent road with a wide shoulder but lots of traffic. After an 11 am stop in Les Borges Blanques for coffee and pastry, we transitioned to quiet rural roads. We initially mistook olive harvesting for almond harvesting. I picked a few almonds, removed the hulls and cracked the shells, and they were excellent.

—Stone Bridge, leaving Montblanc about 9 am.

—Family Harvesting Almonds

—Dog of the Day

—Almonds.  The husk splits while on the tree and is easily removed.

—Almond Picker.  The central shaft shakes the tree while the netting extends to collect the almonds.

—Nice Residence on the Square in El Cogul. We stopped in El Cogul for lunch. El Cogul was dominated by two, large olive oil processing cooperatives. Stuart tried to order the hamburger and fries. No hamburger, so he and John opted for the hot dog. They received 3 normal hot dogs placed in a 12-inch bun—fries optional. Stephen and I ordered different pork entrees. Neither of us could decipher the Spanish, but pork is pork. Mine came with three small boneless loin chops, fries, and two eggs sunny-side up. Stephen's comprised two large slices of side port and the same chips and eggs. 

—Where's Lodging? Stuart, our only competent Spanish speaker, inquires at the only open establishment in Torrebesses. They not only recommended lodging but called and helped us make reservations. 

—Fortified Torrebesses Building at the top of the Village. Easy to visualize aspects of the Spanish Civil War. Note the wall painting below this building.

—Our Hotel in Granyena de les Barrigues

—Plates at our Granyena de les Barrigues Hotel

—Father & Son. The Granyena de les Barrigues olive cooperative owns a bar, open to everyone, much like working-men's clubs, the American Legion, VFW, Elks, etc. No hang-ups about children in bars, and it will be nothing special when the child is of age. (Really big local cowboy!)